{"id":16055,"date":"2014-08-06T13:11:52","date_gmt":"2014-08-06T11:11:52","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/mobserver.co.za\/?p=16055"},"modified":"2014-08-06T13:13:23","modified_gmt":"2014-08-06T11:13:23","slug":"easy-diy-elegant-modern-coffee-table","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/develop.citizen.co.za\/middelburg-observer\/uncategorized\/2014\/08\/06\/easy-diy-elegant-modern-coffee-table\/","title":{"rendered":"Easy DIY elegant, modern coffee table"},"content":{"rendered":"

YOU WILL NEED:<\/strong><\/p>\n

1 of 640 x 1240mm 16mm SupaWood – top<\/p>\n

1 of 600 x 1200mm 16mm SupaWood – base<\/p>\n

1 of 450 x 600mm 16mm SupaWood – divider<\/p>\n

1 of 550 x 600mm 16mm SupaWood – shelf<\/p>\n

2 of 70 x 1200mm 16mm SupaWood – front panel<\/p>\n

2 of 70 x 632mm 16mm SupaWood – side panel<\/p>\n

4 of 69 x 69 x 536mm PAR pine – legs<\/p>\n

2 of 44 x 44 x 1800mm lengths of PAR pine – crossbeams<\/p>\n

4 x 35mm screws<\/p>\n

5 x 75mm screws<\/p>\n

6 steel corner braces plus 16mm screws<\/p>\n

Wood glue<\/p>\n

Wood filler<\/p>\n

TOOLS:<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

Drill \/ Driver plus assorted bits<\/p>\n

Mitre saw or mitre box and backsaw<\/p>\n

Wood chisel<\/p>\n

Sander plus 120- and 240-grit sandpaper<\/p>\n

Router or Dremel Trio and decorative bit<\/p>\n

Tape measure and pencil<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Note: All sections are pre-drilled with 3mm countersunk pilot holes unless otherwise specified.<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

HERE’S HOW:<\/strong><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

1.<\/strong>\u00a0To start there are a few pieces that need to be cut and routed. Use a jigsaw to cut out 69mm x 69mm squares for mounting the legs.<\/p>\n

\"x-table-3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

2.<\/strong>\u00a0After cutting the corners, make a mark at the centre of the cut-out (on the long side) to drill a 4mm pilot hole that 75mm deep.<\/p>\n

\"x-table-4\"<\/a><\/p>\n

3.<\/strong>\u00a0If you want to add a decorative edge on the base panels and top, \u00a0use a Dremel Trio or Router and decorative bit.<\/p>\n

\"x-table-6\"<\/a><\/p>\n

4.<\/strong>\u00a0Use a tape measure and pencil to draw a line 217mm from the top and bottom of\u00a0the divider. Use as a guide to mount the shelf with\u00a045mm screws.<\/p>\n

\"x-table-7\"<\/a><\/p>\n

5.<\/strong>\u00a0Also measure and draw a line on both sides of the base at 550mm and 566mm in on the shelf side and use this as a guide for attaching the base to\u00a0the divider.<\/p>\n

\"x-table-10\"<\/a><\/p>\n

.<\/strong>\u00a0To attach the legs to the side with the shelf measure and mark all the way around the leg at 70mm and 86mm, and 303mm and 319mm – also mark the centre point (34.5mm) \u00a0at the front of each leg. Repeat this on the remaining legs but only draw a 70mm and 86mm line with a centre mark at the front.<\/p>\n

On the marks drill a 10mm deep hole with a 10mm wood bit. Use the drawn lines as a guide to mount the legs to the base and shelf with 75mm screws.<\/p>\n

\"x-table-11\"<\/a><\/p>\n

7.<\/strong>\u00a0The top has a 20mm overlap around the edge. Secure the\u00a0top to the legs and divider with 45mm screws.<\/p>\n

\"x-table-12\"<\/a><\/p>\n

8.<\/strong>\u00a0Attach the base front and back panel to the legs and repeat with\u00a0the side panels.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\n

GOOD TO KNOW<\/strong><\/p>\n

Attach steel angle braces along underneath the base to secure the front, back and side panels along the length.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\n

\"x-table-13\"<\/a><\/p>\n

9.<\/strong>\u00a0For the cross pieces cut 4 x 650mm lengths of 44 x 44mm pine. Working one length at a time, cut a 42-degree angle at the top. The length is still too long, so place this against the side of the table to mark for the correct length and cut at a 42-degree angle. Repeat this for all legs.<\/p>\n

Keep the cross pieces together in pairs for the two sides to know which piece fits where when putting the sections together.<\/p>\n

\n

GOOD TO KNOW<\/strong><\/p>\n

This method ensures exact lengths and cutting angles, as a few millimeters here and there in the assembly can make a lot of difference\u00a0<\/strong>when fitting the cross pieces.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\n

\"x-table-14\"<\/a><\/p>\n

10.<\/strong>\u00a0Place one pair \u00a0in place in the side\u00a0to mark the points where the two<\/p>\n

beams intersect and mark the top and bottom with a pencil line. Repeat this for the other side.<\/p>\n

\"x-table-16\"<\/a><\/p>\n

11.<\/strong>\u00a0To ensure a perfect overlap remove exactly half the thickness on both beams. The back beam has the top half removed and the top beam has\u00a0the bottom half removed. These will then slot together to create the ‘X’ shape for\u00a0the ends of the table. You can use a wood chisel to remove these sections.<\/p>\n

\"x-table-17\"<\/a><\/p>\n

12.<\/strong>\u00a0Secure the beams with wood glue, clamp and\u00a0leave overnight. Place the ‘X’ beams in place with wood glue.<\/p>\n

\"x-table-18\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Finishing<\/strong><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n